ModCollection

Slip the barrel in the bracket, attatch the breach, place the gas transfer port in place, then reattatch the rear sight and breach. Line the barrel up so that the front sight is vertical, and tighten the allen screw on the front bracket. To get to the sear, you'll need a screwdriver and a pair of tweezers. Remove the grip panels, then undo the screws holding the sideplate of the frame in place. CAREFULLY remove the plate, and use the tweezers to remove the spring and ball that latcth the safety. Remove the safety, trigger, sear, and their pins and springs. Assembly is the reverse of this, but plan on a few minutes fiddling around with the ball ans spring for the safety detent, as it's a pain to get back in. To remove the frame from the gas tube (do this only if you need to polish the hammer) you'll want a short screwdriver bit and a wrench rather than a normal screwdriver, otherwise you'll damage the screw head getting the back screw out. Again, watch for that ball and spring on the safety, since they are contained by the gas tube. I always take the frame apart before I remove the frame from the gas tube. You can polish the hammer while it's still in the gun, just use masking tape to keep the dust from polishing out of the action. If you do want to remove the hammer, then you'll need to remove both screws holding in the hammer plug (the rear sight screw and the rear frame screw) and removethe breach. The hammer will now go back further than normal, and you can remove the cocking pin through the slot in the top of the gas tube. I've never taken the valve out, so I can't help there.

Dissasembly
To change barrels, you'll need a set of allen (hex) wrenches going down to .050", and a regular screwdriver. Loosen the allen screw on the top of the barrel bracket, remove the allen screw located just behind the breach, and remove the screw holding in the rear sight. Lift the breach carefully, and remove the gas transfer port just under the breech end of the barrel, noting the correct orientation. Slip the breach assenbly off the barrel, and slip the barrel forwards out of the bracket.
Reassembly
Slip the barrel in the bracket, attatch the breach, place the gas transfer port in place, then reattatch the rear sight and breach. Line the barrel up so that the front sight is vertical, and tighten the allen screw on the front bracket. To get to the sear, you'll need a screwdriver and a pair of tweezers. Remove the grip panels, then undo the screws holding the sideplate of the frame in place. CAREFULLY remove the plate, and use the tweezers to remove the spring and ball that latcth the safety. Remove the safety, trigger, sear, and their pins and springs. Assembly is the reverse of this, but plan on a few minutes fiddling around with the ball ans spring for the safety detent, as it's a pain to get back in. To remove the frame from the gas tube (do this only if you need to polish the hammer) you'll want a short screwdriver bit and a wrench rather than a normal screwdriver, otherwise you'll damage the screw head getting the back screw out. Again, watch for that ball and spring on the safety, since they are contained by the gas tube. I always take the frame apart before I remove the frame from the gas tube. You can polish the hammer while it's still in the gun, just use masking tape to keep the dust from polishing out of the action. If you do want to remove the hammer, then you'll need to remove both screws holding in the hammer plug (the rear sight screw and the rear frame screw) and removethe breach. The hammer will now go back further than normal, and you can remove the cocking pin through the slot in the top of the gas tube. I've never taken the valve out, so I can't help there.